Sosquua

Patrimonio culinario

Ivy Jasso Martínez — 2024-09-02

Pendiente

Culinary Heritage Social Appropriation

Indira Quiroga Dallos — 2024-09-02

This article addresses the appropriation of culinary heritage in Bucaramanga, (Santander, Colombia), focusing on the role of traditional cooks. It highlights that traditional cuisine is not only a means of livelihood, but also a vehicle of cultural identity and collective memory, through which communities are linked to their history and territory. Specifically, part of the results of the research project entitled “Así Sabe Bucaramanga” are presented, which seeks to make visible the cooks who carry out their trade in urban and rural spaces. A qualitative analysis is carried out using ethnographic techniques such as participant observation and semi-structured interviews with local cooks. The article highlights how market squares and public spaces become vital scenarios for the expression of culinary heritage, where traditional foods that are part of the social fabric are sold. The narratives of several cooks present how these individuals have inherited recipes and techniques over generations and what it means to them. Some current challenges for traditional food vendors are also mentioned. It concluded that traditional cooking not only nourishes bodies, but also souls, by keeping alive the stories and traditions that define a community. Through recognition and support for local cooks, in their daily activity and not necessarily through spectacularization, the continuity of these cultural practices can be ensured in the future.

The Yucca as Uitoto People Ancestral Culinary Heritage from Colombia Amazonia

Sabrina González Barbosa — 2024-09-02

The aim of this research article is to explore the ancestral culinary relationship of the Uitoto indigenous people with yucca. The analysis was conducted based on the following articulating axes of Uitoto history as ancestral people: organizational structure, resistance and collective memory. Cassava has been fundamental in explaining how these articulating axes function in Uitoto culture. This work contemplates two historical periods (1870 to 1930 and 2000 to 2020), both of which correspond to moments of war in Uitoto territory. Ethnography and history are the methodological axes of the research. With the current knowledge of the Uitoto, ethnography has made it possible to contrast some continuities in the uses that continue to be made of yucca. The second contributed to the review of the indigenous people's past, through documents, books, visits to the Historical Archive in Bogotá and the library of the Banco de la República in Leticia. Some observations on the continuities in the use of yucca were made in La Chorrera, Colombian Amazonia, as well as in the triple border between Peru, Brazil and Colombia. One of the most relevant findings was the methodological construction of a model based on a triad (tobacco, coca leaf and sweet yucca) that constitutes the identity of the Uitoto people. On this occasion, we will focus on one of these elements of the triad (yucca) and its importance in the processes of resistance in both periods, as well as the transfer of the collective memory of this ancestral culinary knowledge and how it is considered the culinary heritage of the Uitoto people.

Venezuelan Migrant Gustatory Memory and Its Consolidation in Transit and Destination Scenarios

Carolina Rey Rivera — 2024-09-02

This article aims to make visible the culinary practices of Venezuelan migrants associated with the loss of their tradition. Under this guideline, it analyzes how their tradition becomes a practice of gustatory memories, through the places where they build their memory, the routes of flavor they visit and the fusions that give rise to the assimilation of their cultural citizenship in the Pueblo Libre district in Lima, Peru. The methodology structured an exploratory qualitative approach and the use of ethnographic techniques such as the photographic archive and grounded theory. It analyzes the data obtained through the qualitative analysis software ATLAS.ti. The main findings show how migrants, in the absence of traditional inputs, build information networks through their taste memory, evoking their culture and bringing it to their reality through the creation of productive ventures, using WhatsApp as a means of communication, connection and marketing par excellence to share with family, friends, and clients various recipes and preparations that strengthen a new identity of the Venezuelan migrant, based on fusion food.

Basque Restaurants Boom in Montevideo, Uruguay (1988-2011)

Martín Gamboa — 2024-09-02

This article presents what was known as the “boom” of Basque restaurants in Montevideo (Uruguay) from a historical-descriptive approach. In that sense, from the settlement of the first Basque restaurant in 1988 to the last one in 2011, they had certain traits in common. As a result, the article describes the evolution of these restaurants during a period of almost two and a half decades. Likewise, the research poses a dilemma about the three forms of tourism that these locals promoted: culinary, business, and urban tourism. Hence, the gastronomic and service offerings provided by the restaurants were never totally circumscribed to one of these three types of tourism, but rather attracted different segments. This finding allows us to deconstruct the idea of a “purist” conception of the different types of tourism associated with certain attractions.

Street Stories

Mónica Rivera Tabares — 2024-09-02

This article aims to explore how gastronomic street food commerce on wheels has been configured and operates in the historic center of Puebla (México) and its characteristics, understanding the center as a culinary space full of tensions among the actors who occupy it and a reproducer of social classes. For this it used a qualitative-exploratory approach to the phenomenon, involving fieldwork with tools such as participant and non-participant observation, photography, and narrative, from an ethnographic perspective, under the methodology of Manuel Antonio Baeza's planes of reality. These tools aim to elucidate for the reader the multiple forms of gastronomic commerce on wheels that intertwine in the historic center of the city, the culinary narratives of the actors who carry them out, and the challenges they face. This section is part of a broader doctoral research on street commerce in the city as part of invisible everyday economies.